Tuesday, March 15, 2016

BBQPalooza2016: Friends and Family

The annual bbqpalooza trip opened with a somber start and ended with a loud bang. It featured seven previously visited favorites, Franklin BBQ minus the line, and one new top 50 crossed off the list. Over TWENTY pounds of meat was consumed and a great time was had by all, but as always the people who create the smoked goodness will be remembered long after the meat itself is forgotten.

Snow's Spread
 This year we decided to head back to the location where it all started six years ago.....Snow's BBQ in Lexington! One of our very favorite people in BBQ Ms. Tootsie Tomanetz tends the meat on Saturdays only at quite possibly the most Texan location this side of the Alamo. On Friday March 4, bbqpalooza eve, we got the unfortunate news that Ms. Tootsie's son Herschel Tomanetz had passed away after his bout with cancer. We knew it might be a little more somber environment than usual, but once we found out Snow's would still be open we knew we HAD to be there. Gone was the familiar sight of "Hershey's" strong veined arms carrying trays of meat back and forth from the iconic pits, but there as always was Ms. Tootsie smoking the greatest brisket known to Texas....and therefore mankind. We were able to give our condolences, share a card, and a very special hug with Ms. Tootsie that morning....and quite honestly that experience alone was worth the trip this year. Although the meat was secondary in importance, I can say that everyone who had previously been to Snow's agreed that it was one of the best plates Ms. Tootsie had ever delivered. It seemed that a huge portion of the BBQ community came out to support the Snow's family and it was great to catch up with the best BBQ photographer around Robert Lerma, whose shots of Snow's people and food are easily some of my all time favorites. It was an amazing start to our annual trek for Q! #RIPHershey
We love you Ms. Tootsie
Our next stop took us to Belton where we got to cross off a brand new Texas Monthly top 50 off of our list.....Miller's Smokehouse. The set up is sneaky as it seems a lot smaller than it really is. Several smokers are cranking meat out back and if you walk from the front room to the next section (which we were at first unaware of) there is a much bigger seating area/ bar. Miller's has only been around since 2008, but it was easy to see how they cracked the list. Juicy sausage, great ribs, and some tremendous burnt ends were devoured. The people are extremely friendly and the service was top notch. Do not....I repeat DO NOT skip out on the banana pudding.
Valentina's
From Belton we headed into the capital of Texas and BBQ....Austin. We first headed to an old favorite Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ. If you are like me and your two favorite food groups are BBQ and Mexican.....well then my friend Valentina's is quite possibly your Disneyland. Melding top central Texas smoked meats with the spicy goodness of Mexican guacamole, salsa, and tortillas, Valentina's is a Texan's oasis. We had chicken, brisket, and carnitas tacos and they were all flat out amazing. The set up for the food truck isn't quite as nice as it used to be next to Star Bar (now it's located in a gas station parking lot), but somehow the food was even better than we remembered. Valentina's is an absolute must for any serious BBQ/taco enthusiasts.

Our final stop on Saturday evening was Freedmen's Bar, a retro style BBQ/cocktail bar in a building built in 1869 that has served as a church, a publishing house, and a grocery store to name a few. Freedmen's is an awesome spot, and of all the places on the list serves as the best BBQ spot to take a date on or for a dinner out with close friends. The food is always top notch. Besides the amazing BBQ (we had a few holy trinity plates), the house made pickles, bread and pimento, and smoked banana pudding and mousse really stood out. I can say as an aside that the brisket this time was too thickly cut for our preferences, but was the only dark mark on an otherwise great meal. It was time to enjoy Austin for a while before we headed back to rest up for day two.

The next morning featured a feat I'm not sure has ever been replicated. A few years ago we picked up Snow's and ate it in line at Franklin BBQ....well this year my friends we were able to get a to go order at the World Famous Franklin BBQ and eat it with our 3 meat plate from the World's most iconic food truck Micklethwait Craft Meats!!!! When half our party showed up at Craft Meats and unwrapped the Franklin goodness to indulge in as we waited, a group in front of us literally said, "Guys....I think that's Franklin's....we may have just been one upped." Yes my friend....yes you were. Side note: we did share a few brisket bites with our fellow BBQ enthusiasts. Talk about a meal...All I can remember was Franklin brisket, ribs, amazing Micklethwait bread, Craft Meats hot links, and BEEF STRIP LOIN! It was like a meat lover's Christmas.

From Craft Meats we headed over to check in on John Mueller, and let me assure you that the rumors are false....John is still cranking out his delicious BBQ as the bad boy of Texas Q. In fact, it was probably the best brisket we had ever had there. Add in the always elite sides like cheesy squash , and the world famous thin sauce, and we were in for a real treat. In a huge upset John was extremely friendly that day thanking us for coming by and seeming to be in a generally good mood. Really I'm not sure how he could ever be in a bad mood cranking out plates like the one we had that day. We're big fans of John Mueller Meat Co. and never miss a chance to see John and get some of his legendary food.

Finally it was time to wrap up the trip at one of our very favorite spots Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew. Owner Shane Stiles and head pit master Lance Kirkpatrick are two of the coolest guys in the business. Their demeanor leaks over into the restaurant making Stiles Switch the best BBQ hangout around. Lance took us on a behind the scenes pit tour and gave us some info on new techniques he had been trying. You can always tell Lance and Shane's excitement for their craft and after sampling the goods it was easy to see why they were so excited. The Q that Lance and his crew are spitting out just keeps getting better! The brisket was amazing, the sausage was delicious, and most of all the new ribs were an explosion of flavor. Most of the joints on this list stay open a few hours or until "sold out", but Stiles cranks out Q for their huge crowds Tuesday-Sunday from 11am until nighttime. Just seeing all the meats they were smoking for the "night crowd" was overwhelming. Stiles Switch manages to smoke meat at the same level of the big guns.....and do it at about three times the output. These guys deserve all the success they're having and I sure hope we're still visiting this favorite decades from now.
Lance Kirkpatrick: BBQ Whisperer

BBQpalooza was actually started 6 years ago by our good friend Chris Hicks. He felt like he needed to share his immense love for Texas BBQ with a few of us close friends (especially a recent Michigan transplant) and it blossomed from there. Chris is moving this summer to Nashville, but assured us that BBQpalooza will live on. Hopefully he can make some new Texas BBQ converts in Tennessee. There was a feeling of one last hurrah on this trip, and although we know it won't be the last it was great to spend the weekend with good friends who can bond over BBQ. When we get back each year, everybody always asks what was the best? The best? The best is sharing a moment with a grieving mother who has given so many others joy over the years. The best is being able to share a world class piece of brisket with a complete stranger and being able to communicate with someone you never met through a simple nod. The best is getting to listen to an artist like Lance Kirkpatrick convey his love for the craft he does so well. The BEST is getting to spend a few hours with some of the best friends each year eating till we are sick and loving every minute of it. BBQ is just food sure, but in Texas it's way more than that. BBQ is friends and family.



Tuesday, March 17, 2015

BBQPALOOZA: 5TH ANNIVERSARY


Spread at Freedmen's Bar



Many things in this world fail to last 5 years: Presidential terms, a quarter of all marriages, your expensive cell phone, the average NFL career....all these things can now take a backseat to the longevity of BBQPALOOZA. What started as a hair brained idea to sample delicious Central Texas BBQ has morphed into a yearly trek across the lower half of Texas in search of the very best Q. It's a two day homage to the greatest state and the greatest cooking method in the history of humankind.  Is it ambitious? Yes. Is it exhausting? Yes. Is it 48 hrs of smoke drenched euphoria? Absolutely. As we get older some things change, we've now got enough offspring that we were able to procure a pimped out minivan for this year's fest. We're not the first or the last group to do a BBQ tour (let's be honest Daniel Vaughan probably equals this trip 40 or so times a year), but in our minds it's a little like Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Texas Independence Day all wrapped up in one. And each year I get to document the trip right here....hope you enjoy.

When we started this bad boy 5 years ago we were so naive. Rating and ranking the very best of the best? Trying to eat 8 spots in a single day? Avoiding Austin? All these mistakes have been rectified. I get asked a lot, especially after BBQPALOOZA, Stephen, "What's the best BBQ in Texas?" Well, I just can't throw ranks out there anymore. After meeting the pit masters who spend hours every night stoking fires, rubbing meat, drinking copious amounts of espresso....I can't just rank 1-10 and call it a day. Is Led Zeppelin superior to The Beatles? Does Willie Mays pale in comparison to Mickey Mantle? Ginger or Mary Ann? I mean....some things exude so much excellence that they demand to be appreciated on their own and without comparison. Texas BBQ has become that way for me. So if you're reading this to organize a list stop here, but if you want to know a few of the things that make each of these spots fantastic temples to meat then you came to the right spot.

Corkscrew BBQ


Our first stop this year was Corkscrew BBQ. This Texas Monthly top 50 is in Spring and boasts some of the very best smoked meats near our hometown of Houston. A few of us had been to Corkscrew before so we knew to arrive early enough for a number and then procure a picnic table to sample the smells and await our spread. Corkscrew does not disappoint! The moist brisket would be right at home with the very best in Austin. The pork ribs and sausage are well above average. The beef ribs are enormous and have great texture. This was my first time to have the chicken, and I must say ordering that was a tremendous choice! We usually skip the poultry, but bar none, everyone claimed that pit master Will's smoked bird was quite possibly the best we had EVER had. Pro tip: arrive early to get a number and come on a Saturday when it's the only day of the week Corkscrew offers beef ribs, chicken, and free beer.

From Corkscrew we headed out to Bryan for our first ever visit to Fargo's Pit BBQ. Fargo's was pretty busy but owner Alan Caldwell made sure we had plenty of seating. His moist brisket has a unique taste that is delicious and distinctly Fargo's. The ribs and sausage were good too and it wasn't surprising that this little spot in Bryan has been named a Texas Monthly top 50. Alan is a really nice guy but don't try to get him to tell you his secrets, when we inquired about what wood he used to get that distinct taste he shot us down like a frat boy approaching Katy Perry. He even keeps a tall fence around the pit out back in case anyone thinks they're going to cop a peek or snap a pic. Keep that secret up Mr. Caldwell it's obvious the people love what you're doing.

Since we were in Bryan already we decided to head over to the new Kreuz market in Bryan. We've sampled the original in Lockhart, but in a shocking turn of events this spread may have actually outdone the original. Juicy, flavorful brisket and some of the best sausage of the trip were on full display here, but the real star is the pork chop/ homemade sauerkraut. If you ever go to any Kreuz location DO NOT miss the pork chop and sauerkraut. Just like in Lockhart there's no forks and no sauce, and I can verify that neither are needed. If you find yourself near Bryan and want some authentic central Texas BBQ head to this spot and you will not be disappointed.

After Kreuz we headed to Austin and the current "Capital of Texas and Texas BBQ". We had an evening reservation at last year's biggest revelation Freedmen's Bar. This time there was no argument about what we were ordering.....The Texas Trio. We procured some soy marinated pork cheek as well, and let me assure you that it was the most flavorful bbq/asian assault on my taste buds possible. Pit master Evan LeRoy's brisket is top notch and so is the sausage. The ribs really caught us off guard this time as they were even more flavorful than we remembered. Freedmen's is what I like to call "classy" bbq (fancy and located in a historic building specializing in retro cocktails and the like), but do not let that fool you.....plenty of pit masters toiling at pop ups would love to be able to replicate the taste Evan does with his authentic Texas Q. Two years running Freedmen's has been on every one of our minds as a top meal of the weekend.

la bbq


We woke up the next morning on day two and as always we wondered, "How in Sam Houston are we going to eat more BBQ all day?" A banana and coffee later we were sitting at la bbq as the undisputed firsts in line and by 9:45 when the pits were spilling out that amazing smell......we all caught our second smoke....I mean wind. Let me tell you....NOBODY can put together a better spread than la. Few can equal and many can try, but the combination of perfect moist brisket, delicious pork ribs, and a sausage that was top shelf....is the reason many refer to la as Franklin's minus the line. Don't be fooled though, you still have to get there early or it's going to be at least a 1 hour wait on busy days. Apparently John Lewis is starting a new bbq adventure in South Carolina, but as luck would have it he surprisingly rolled up to the spot right before opening so we also caught a glimpse of the "pound for pound" best pit master in Texas. Great start to day 2!

From there we traveled to what is for my money the most iconic structure in Austin ..... the Micklethwait Craft Meats trailer. Tom is a wizard of meat who has recently won beef rib contests, appeared on Jimmy Kimmel (Microwave), and apparently gotten a LOT more popular. He was sold out of beef ribs an hour after opening! At this perhaps most hipster of all Austin BBQ joints you can get a spread as good or better than the rest, but what steals the show are all the things you can't get anywhere else. Known for his ridiculously good sides, Tom takes pride in everything he serves from the best homemade bread to house grown pickles to the straight from dessert heaven moon pies we brought back to our wives to bank some goodwill for next year's trip. Micklethwait delivers on the smoked meats AND everything else. If you want world class Q, but are also craving sides and desserts that will put you into a food coma for hours then look no further than Craft Meats.

Here is where our little excursion went from ridiculously fun to epic. We decided we had a little time and wanted to see what the line was like at John Mueller Meat Co. As most reading this blog probably know John is the greatest character in all of BBQ, and our history with him goes back a few years. We've sampled his Q many times and never been disappointed so we went to sample what he was cooking that day and as luck would have it John was ready for us. As we were making our order my buddy Chris questioned the worker behind the counter about how long ago they took the fence down that had been surrounding the property. From several feet away John piped, "Several months ago thanks for coming by so often!" Being heckled by John is nearly as fun as sampling his smoked meats. As we tasted his always moist brisket with terrific fat rendering John kept easing by the table.....we bit. "Hey, John you do realize we live in Houston and have to drive a ways to visit?" Not missing a beat while walking away John dropped the mic..."You could come by more if you weren't over at Micklethwait!" So....so.....good. We all nearly fell off the picnic table. Some have sworn John Mueller off, but never because of the food. He is one of the top in Texas, and in some ways the experience is heightened when you get first rate heckled by the legend himself during the meal. Don't let him fool you though, on the way back to the minivan he waved and thanked us for coming by....the exterior might be as spicy and flavorful as his sauce, but when it comes to those who love great Texas Q John Mueller is as soft and welcoming as his moist brisket. (P.S. Thanks for unblocking me on Twitter John.....)

Barely able to contain our laughter and our contentment from John we headed over to the last new spot on our itinerary Blue Ox BBQ. We planned to sample and head out, but ended up staying here the longest of any stop. We settled in and enjoyed an impromptu set from Wood and Wire that was the perfect soundtrack for BBQPALOOZA. Blue Ox has a fantastic setup in the backyard of the Buzz Mill coffee shop and bar's backyard, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The owner and pit master Chase was an incredibly cool dude who offered us some free burnt ends and gave us a tour of the pits (once owned and operated by none other than Aaron Franklin himself). Franklin would be proud to know that Chase is using those pits to optimum effect, cranking out some really delicious brisket, sausage, and ribs. The real star of the show was the pork tenderloin which was without a doubt the best I've had. I can't think of a better brunch idea than getting some drinks from Buzz Mill and sampling Chase's smoked meats. Blue Ox was fantastic and I am really glad we were able to add it to the lineup WE WILL BE BACK.

Barely able to walk and running on BBQ fumes we went over to Stiles and Switch for our last stop. Throwing washers on Shane's back porch and sampling some of Lance's tremendous Q has become a BBQPALOOZA tradition. Shane and Lance were gone to an event for SXSW, but they graciously left us a new invention that seemed personally designed for our pleasure.....the Notorious R.I.B. It's one of Lance's rich delicious beef ribs on a spread of tater tots with homemade queso poured over it...I KNOW. We decided that the Notorious R.I.B. was the perfect closing number for our little dance and we were right. Stiles has got some flak for "desecrating a beef rib in a nontraditional way", but to that I say "Get off my lawn old BBQ men!" Shane is not forcing everybody to order their ribs that way...you can still have it traditionally. Stiles and Switch has the same vibe the building carried in Dazed and Confused (it was the Emporium).....fun and good times. You know what the Notorious R.I.B. was? Fun....and good times, and for us the perfect time to add a little queso and carbs to the menu.

Notorious R.I.B.


And at that BBQPALOOZA2015 came to an end. It included firsts for Corkscrew, Fargo's, Kreuz in Bryan, Blue Ox, and rolling deep in a minivan. We once again were blown away by the quality of BBQ in between Houston and Austin, and barely conscious from a heavy meat coma. Five years is a long time to do anything in a culture where longevity is sometimes mocked, but I don't see BBQPALOOZA going anywhere anytime soon. Big thanks to all the awesome pit masters who fed us and all of our wives for allowing us back into our homes smelling like the inside of a smoke room. Until next year.....






Saturday, March 15, 2014

#BBQPalooza2014 : The Decision

Sometimes things just come together: the 1995 Rockets playoff run, the Sgt. Peppers album, the cast of Breaking Bad, and the 2014 #BBQPalooza. All epic. All spectacular. All full of several important decisions. We arrived bright and early in Austin on Tuesday to get into the world famous Franklin's BBQ line. We had a tight itinerary that had been perfected over several weeks. When we turned the corner at 8:20 am to see the longest line we'd ever encountered, the wind flew out of our sails. We decided to get in line anyway, but a Franklin employee came by to get our order and said we'd be eating around 1 pm. There we were in a figurative BBQ studio with a sauce slathered Jim Gray anxiously awaiting our decision. Would we stay in line and possibly have to scratch several plans (probably the uneducated decision we would have made a few years ago), or would we scratch the plans and embrace a new path? Like LeBron we decided to "take our talents" elsewhere and that was the domino which started a chain reaction of great decisions, great timing, and most importantly great barbecue.


We left the line vowing to wake up early the next morning and be at the front. Franklin's could wait until tomorrow. We would be heading for John Mueller Meat Co. Now it is widely known that John is the unchallenged bad boy of Texas BBQ, which some complain about, but I've always thought only adds to his mystique. He didn't disappoint. We made the slight mistake of standing by his fence too early and he snapped a pic of us (one member had a @BBQsnob t shirt on), "I'm sending a picture of you jackasses to Daniel. He'll get a kick out of that shirt." He may or may not have intimidated a few of our group. One thing John is always hospitable about.....MEAT. You don't like your BBQ with a little attitude? Fine, go somewhere else, but know that your search for the best Q in Texas is severely lacking if you've never sampled John Mueller's smoked offerings. His brisket was tremendous, ribs were delicious, and we were all blown away by the meat consistency of his sausage this year. Like any good Texan I'm not big on sauce, but if that's your thing then John's dipping sauce was tremendous as well (I mostly used it on bread to cleanse the palate after the meat fest). As he usually does he showed that his love for those who appreciate good BBQ is barely masked by that bad boy exterior when he gave a young kid at the front of the line his last t shirt, "Just don't wear that one to school bud.....they won't let ya." It featured his signature motto, "You can all go to hell....I'm going to 6th and Pedernales" (I was jealous of that kid). He also sought us out to offer some expert advice on our itinerary and visit for a minute before commenting, "Well.....I'm bored with you guys now." John's the best... and his Q is a must.....and I'm not even saying that out of fear that he may stab me with a beef rib through the heart on my next visit.


Once we finished at John's we got into the truck to head to the next spot when I happened to see a tweet from la barbecue. I quickly hit them back asking if they were open that day (usually they are closed on Tuesdays), and within a minute Ali (who does a terrific job running their twitter) replied they were open for SXSW! We saw an opening to knock out another big spot without even fighting a line. This was our first trip to the new location on E. 6th St., and I must admit we all preferred their previous spot. Parking was a little difficult and the area felt more crowded, but on the upside there was no line! John Lewis is still cranking out some of the best smoked meats in the world. We got our first beef rib of the trip, and it was exceptional. The moist brisket melted in your mouth and the side of chipotle cole slaw was a perfect choice. Last year la barbecue was the biggest eye opener for me trying it for the first time, and the change in venue has done nothing to water down the quality of barbecue that is being cranked out at this paradise of Q. La barbecue was the only spot in Austin that we visited still offering free beverages to its patrons. It's a great laid back spot to get some of the finest food in the world!


Next we decided to head on over to Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew to spend the rest of the afternoon. We had been in contact with Shane and Lance through twitter (I believe Shane's wife runs the account.....and she does a tremendous job promoting the restaurant) so we were excited about the possibility of meeting the two men behind this Austin landmark. If you don't know, the building where Stiles Switch is located was none other than the Emporium that Matthew McConaughey famously hung out at in Dazed and Confused. The vibe that existed in that legendary film still lingers over this mecca of hangout spots today. If perfect BBQ, large screen televisions, washers on a beautiful patio, local craft beers on tap, and a guaranteed enjoyable atmosphere are your thing......you can't do better than Stiles Switch! It was the perfect spot to sit on the patio a while and throw some washers while our Mueller double header digested. Unfortunately, I lost at washers and had to pay for the Q when we were ready to eat (although I would gladly fork over any amount of cash for the opportunity to partake in some of pit master Lance Kirkpatrick's exceptional food). Don't be fooled by the relaxed atmosphere or the fact they rarely sell out like other spots (by design ....these guys work their tails off to smoke enough meat to ensure their patrons can eat through the evening), YOU WILL NOT EAT BETTER Q THAN STILES SWITCH. We threw down a trinity plate and Lance's succulent beef rib and it was tremendous. We all agreed that the brisket was even better than we remembered last year and the ribs were perfectly rubbed. We would have left happy right then and there, but then Shane Stiles came out to the patio and took us back for a pit tour. We got the opportunity to see Lance at work and talk BBQ with two of the giants in the industry! Getting to hear Lance tell us a bit about his approach to smoking meat and seeing him rubbing down a few briskets was truly a priceless experience. Shane was extremely candid with us about everything from how he got started, his business strategy, thoughts on other Texas BBQ spots, and even football. You can tell that the enthusiasm for good barbecue and mutual respect these two have toward each other really translates into the restaurant as a whole. There's not two more genuine guys in the barbecue business than Shane and Lance, and there isn't a better atmosphere to eat World Class BBQ than Stiles Switch. It was easily the best experience we had on a trip.


After a short regroup at the hotel it was time to head out to our first new spot of the year....Freedmen's Bar. Admittedly I was a little skeptical about this so called "fancy" BBQ spot that doubles as a retro-inspired cocktail lounge. There was even a short argument over whether we would partake in a 4th plate of BBQ for the day or just sample some of the fancy sides and desserts, but the honorary Texan in our group demanded, "Guys....we came to eat barbecue!" And eat barbecue we did my friend. We sampled the holy trinity plate with German potatoes, grilled cabbage slaw, and house pickles. Quite frankly this was the revelation of our 2014 trip. Pit master Evan LeRoy is one of Zagat's 30 under 30, and I must say we severely underrated him. We have never made a better choice than ordering that holy trinity plate. Despite being full of smoked meats, there was not a single morsel of food left on our beautifully laid out tray. I can't recommend Freedmen's Bar enough.....you WILL NOT find a better meal being offered of any type than what Evan is churning out here. We are putting this spot firmly in the annual rotation and I for one can't wait to return for a second meal at this "fancy" Q establishment. It might be fancier than your run of the mill backyard BBQ, but I would challenge any died in the wool BBQ redneck to sample Freedmen's delicious brisket and ribs and claim that they are not authentic enough or worthy of being in the top echelon of barbecue in the world. We all left after some smoked chocolate mousse singing descriptive adjectives for the food experience of Freedmen's. Go there.


After a "short" 2 mile hike that has since been affectionately dubbed the "Bataan Death March", we finally stumbled upon Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ. What better way to end a perfect day of smoked meats than topping it off with some brisket tacos. This is the perfect late night snack truck for true Texans! Anybody that knows me knows I love BBQ and Mexican food, so Valentina's is like heaven in a food truck. They've got great barbecue, great tacos, and a friendly staff to meet all your late night food needs. Those tacos were the perfect topper to a great first day, but now it was time to get some shut eye.....Franklin's round 2 would commence early the next morning.


What a difference one day and one hour makes. This time we got up early and showed up to Franklin BBQ at 7:20. Only a few people were waiting in their car (it was colder and very windy), so we braved the elements to stake claim to our first ever "first in line at Franklin's" experience. As always we met some great people in line to discuss barbecue, this time some fine folks from Georgia who admitted their barbecue usually existed solely on chopped pork! Boy were they in for an experience. A lot of people bag on Franklin for having such a ridiculously long line, and I admit if I were a native of Austin there are other less crowded spots I would frequent far more often, but everyone should do Franklin BBQ at least once. People wait in line because as Texas Monthly has proclaimed twice now....It's the best. Aaron deserves all the attention he is getting. When he showed up at our table to see how things were.....I have to admit a small part of me knew what teenage girls at a Beiber concert feel like. If anyone is the rock star of Texas Q it's Aaron Franklin....not because he sells out everyday.....because his barbecue will bring grown men to tears. I have never been to Franklin BBQ and left feeling like I had wasted my time waiting in line for food.


After dining at the most famous BBQ spot in the world it was off to last year's diamond in the rough Micklethwait Craft Meats. Last year the now famous Mr. "Microwave" (courtesy of Jimmy Kimmel) was hardly a household name, but just like we figured after sampling his meats......he's a reluctant rock star in his own right now. There was a far bigger line this year, but the iconic food truck was still churning out lots of "craft meats" for the fans. We were disappointed when we heard they were out of sausage (widely considered by us the best in town), but when they offered to throw in the last link of kielbasa....we were stoked. It was very easy to see how Tom recently won the Austin Beef Rib Challenge....his offering was roughly the size of my 2 year old son and nearly as tender as the brisket! Tom and his staff are some of the nicest people you can meet and we were all excited to see the much deserved success that Micklethwait (the th is silent) is enjoying. This year we followed up our meat splurge with some of his world famous homemade Moon Pies.....Sweet Mother of all things Holy!!! that was the greatest ending to a BBQ feast I've ever had. I've already promised to try to throw one in an ice chest for my wife next year.

From last year's diamond in the rough we traveled to our last stop and probably best chance at this year's soon to explode spot... Kerlin BBQ. Again we had a small debate on whether we would head back home or try out this new spot we had heard a lot about, and I am glad we made the trip! Get to Kerlin BBQ now before the lines do. They were the only spot we visited with live music, and the bluesy rock was a perfect compliment to their moist brisket, tasty ribs, flavorful sausage, and pickled jalapenos. They have a great outdoor seating area where you can hang out and throw some ladder golf (which we did). The highlight here was a middle aged man who rode up on his bike and asked, "Is this John Mueller's spot?" HAHAHAHAHA....We all had a great laugh thinking about him finding John's spot and asking the man himself that silly question. No sir....this isn't John's spot, but if Kerlin BBQ keeps cranking out the kind of meat we tasted on this day people might just be riding around Austin in the very near future asking,"is this the famous Kerlin BBQ?"

One place you never have to wonder if you are at the right spot is Louie Mueller BBQ. Our last stop on the way home was at the iconic granddaddy of them all in Taylor, Texas. If you have never been to Taylor then your BBQ resume is severely lacking my friend. Nothing says Texas BBQ like the historic Louie Mueller building. Last time we came Lance himself was serving the meat and John and LeAnn both learned the ropes here as well. Mueller's is still in the Texas Monthly top 5, and while we feel like there is no place in Texas boasting BBQ quite like Austin anymore.....Louie Mueller and our hometown spot of Killen's BBQ are two of the few joints that can serve the rest of Texas world class cue. It was an excellent last meal of the trip and in a way an opportunity to end where it all started. I'm never more proud to be a Texan than during my annual BBQ pilgrimage and the environment at Louie Mueller's sums that feeling up to a T.

In life we're often faced with forks in the road and #BBQPalooza was no exception. At 8:20 on a Tuesday morning we wisely chose to leave the line at Franklin's and go off the plan for our annual trip. Dangerous? Possibly. Daring? Maybe. Genius? Absolutely.....and much like LeBron quickly turned his doubters into fans, our decision led us down a path of World Championship BBQ that we will never forget. Easily one of our best trips due to chance, experience, and more than a little luck.....#BBQPalooza will be remembered as an epic trip of smoked meat goodness. Hope you had as much fun reading about it as we did living it.....now go get some Q!


Wednesday, March 13, 2013

BBQpalooza 2013 "Texas Hospitality"



la barbecue Austin, Tx
 Sometimes things just seem to come together: peanut butter and chocolate, the Showtime Lakers, the cast of Shawshank Redemption......the 2013 version of our annual BBQ tour. This year marked our third annual trek into Central Texas to partake in copious amounts of God's gift to men (besides woman of course) ...BBQ. This year's tour began with a downer, but the news that one member would have to come late, like nearly everything else that happened this year soon became a huge positive (more on that later). Even the rainy weather we saw in Austin over the weekend was as if God was shedding tears of joy and blessing over our ambitious journey (no way we would have been able to hit all these world class joints if the weather hadn't chased some less than diehards away!) This year's bbqpalooza was marked by fortune at every turn, and the best hospitality we have ever received on our treks into BBQ holy land. Without further adieu.......here's what transpired.


Tom's trailer was a meat beacon in the night
We arrived in Austin on Friday evening and our one stop was to be a relatively new spot recommended by @TXCleaver called Micklethwait Craft Meats. A trailer specializing in BBQ and relatively unknown (NOT FOR LONG!) to many... even in Austin as we would find out throughout the weekend. This was an awesome start! Every other BBQ joint we have hit previously were pretty well established and well known, but here we all got the feeling that we were getting in on the ground floor of something special. Owner/Pit Master Tom Micklethwait was an extremely cool guy, recommending the homemade greens as a side, telling us how he converted a water heater from an old school into his smoker, and even throwing in a pork shoulder (which turned out to be delicious!) into our to go order. His handmade sausages (we had an andouille and veal sample) are some of the tastiest I've ever eaten. We all agreed we would have rather the sausage not cut so small (as we enjoy being able to bite into the snap casing), however that's not to take anything away from a sausage that was bursting with tremendous flavor and texture.  The moist brisket had obviously been smoked with the care only few people living in Central Texas have perfected, and the ribs got thumbs up all around. The greens we ordered featured rutabaga and sausage, and I'm not throwing out hyperbole by saying they were the best greens I've ever tasted. Getting back to the hotel that night and discovering the pork shoulder was the icing on the cake. Get to Micklethwait's Craft Meats before it becomes another sacred BBQ joint where waiting in line is part of the process! We needed all the rest we could get before the gorging on Saturday so we headed out to the East side for a short night full of hipsters, food trucks, and eclectic dives only Austin could supply before calling it an early night.


Line outside Franklin BBQ at 9:45 a.m.
We woke up bright and early Saturday because, well.....it takes dedication to sample 7 BBQ joints in one day. We knew we would need to be at the front of the line at Franklin's to accomplish our lofty goals for the day. So at 8:20 we were excited to see that we would be tenth in line at Aaron's temple to all things meat.

As previously mentioned, our buddy Rashad was having to meet us Saturday morning. A giant letdown at first, until he came up with an idea that will go down in BBQ lore alongside indirect heat. See, truth be told when our buddy Chris released the 2013 itinerary we were all a little disappointed. Due to time constraints and its limited hours, Snow's BBQ in Lexington would be left off the list for the first time in three years. You have to understand.....Snow's brisket (in my humble opinion) is the single greatest piece of meat in Texas (thereby also the World). It is a mecca to moist, fatty, meat goodness that demands to be tasted by all true connoisseurs of BBQ. Never fear: Rashad left extra early, was first in line at Snow's, and showed up in front of all those hungry Franklin's patrons with a foil wrapper filled with the only breakfast worthy of BBQpalooza......Snow's brisket! Needless to say we became the most popular men in line, and a few kind folks who had previously extended some Texas BBQ hospitality our way during the long wait were rewarded with a slice of their very own Snow's brisket.


Franklin's received our best overall ratings
It was finally 11:00 and time to head into Franklin BBQ. Aaron Franklin is the closest thing the BBQ world has to Elvis. People wait hours to eat his BBQ daily, he's been on the cover of Texas Monthly, and his YouTube channel has given our pal Chris the biggest man crush since Howard Cosell met Ali. Unfortunately, Aaron was busy out back preparing to not only feed the hundreds lined up at his restaurant, but also cater a huge SXSW event (the perils of BBQ royalty...). We sat down slightly disappointed, however before we could dig in Benjy (Franklin's right hand man) approached us and proceeded to take pics, give us the rundown on the weekend, and share our love for BBQ. It takes more than a single man to meet the high standards of BBQ lovers each and every day, and I'm sure Aaron knows this already, but Benjy is a great representative of the restaurant and a preview of how our day would go. As for the meat.....well friends....people don't stand in line for hours to partake in inferior BBQ. For the second straight year Franklin BBQ received the highest overall score from our group. The brisket is quite possibly only second to Snow's, the pulled pork was fantastic, the sausage had a perfect snap, and OH DEAR that pork rib! I had a strong inclination that it was the best rib I had ever eaten. Before the clock had hit high noon, we had already consumed Snow's brisket and an entire plate of Franklin BBQ.

L to R: Me, the Legend himself, and Chris
We left Franklin's hoping to make it to John Mueller's new spot in time to catch some of his legendary BBQ. John's up and down story is Texas BBQ legend, and the man did not disappoint. The twitter bio for @JSM_meats says it all, "You may go to hell, I'm going to 6th and Pedernales". John Mueller Meat Co. is quite possibly the most "Texan" place I've ever visited (that includes the Alamo). When we turned the corner into the lot we were met by a gigantic Texas flag, the actual sound of meat sizzling right by us, and John himself greeting guests with free Lone Star beer. Mr. Mueller was a terrific host (who says this guy can't run a business?), and his beef rib is a must try. I'm sure he has a lot of nicknames, but I'd add "King of Texas Beef Ribs" to the mix. All the meat received top marks from our crew, and as for ambiance.....well....you would really have to hang out with John and eat his BBQ to appreciate how amazing this place is. On our way out he came by once more to ask about our adventure and when he found out we would be sampling a few places around Austin ...and then Lockhart, in true Mueller fashion he dropped an "I ate in Lockhart once" on us. Truly one of the best experiences we have EVER had eating BBQ....


The entertainment at la barbecue
When we left John Mueller Meat Co. we headed over to his former place of employment, and sister's current spot ...la barbecue. We had to fight some terrible SXSW traffic, and it started to rain hard when we got there. The seats were wet, water was dripping on me, and I just didn't really have the same anticipation as I had for other spots. My mistake. La barbecue deserves the same treatment as all the other world class spots we hit in Austin. The new pit master supposedly came from Franklin, and the melding of Franklin/Mueller delivered some of our best overall scores (despite the terrible weather conditions). As if not to be outdone by brother, la barbecue had its own free ice chest full of Lone Star, gave out brisket to those in line, and even had two old guys playing bass and an acoustic guitar belting out some tunes that sounded straight out of O Brother, Where Art Thou. This was easily my best surprise of the weekend. If the siblings want to break off and make two temples to meat instead of one?.....well...all the better for us my friend. Louie Mueller BBQ in Taylor is great, but for my money what the siblings lack in historical sites they more than make up for with superior meats now. The brisket was top 3, the pulled pork was excellent, and even the chipotle coleslaw was the perfect palate cleanser. I cannot recommend this spot to you highly enough.....go there!

Spread at Stiles Switch BBQ
The last stop in Austin was to be Stiles Switch BBQ. I'll admit, at this point I was full and ready to start heading back through Lockhart. With all the Twitter chatter I was getting, my fatigue and busy timeline made me forget that Stiles Switch had wanted us to say hello when we got there and probably had been the most welcoming pre-meal place! I made a restroom break and allowed another member to place our order. He returned with an incredible plate of meat (as you can see above)....LOOK at that Beef Rib....it was amazing! The pork rib and sausage were right on par with the rest of the perfectly smoked meats at the other Austin spots.....but something was wrong. The brisket was rather dry and not up to the standards of what we'd been eating. Apparently, my friend did not request the moist cut (party foul), and I didn't follow through on my promise to say hello. In swooped pit master Lance. He could have been offended that we forgot to say hello and didn't even finish our brisket (honestly I probably would have), but just as I was remembering my promise Lance approached our table with grace, mercy, and a generous amount of moist brisket. "Hey, I'm Lance. I noticed you guys didn't get the moist cut. We've been making more meat than usual this weekend and must have slipped a drier piece in there. Try this out guys." Unbelievable! In a day filled with tremendous hospitality, it was Lance at Stiles Switch who truly took it to the next level. He stayed and talked for a bit while we assured him that his brisket was some of the best in the world. Extremely moist, excellent fat rendering, and super bark. Take this as my formal apology sir, I assure you that next time I'm in Austin I'm going to head to Stiles Switch one evening to eat that glorious BBQ on an empty stomach, throw washers on the enclosed porch, and hang out for a couple of hours at this meat temple.

Black's BBQ
On the way home we went through Lockhart, often referred to as the BBQ capital of Texas. We've been here every year and each time we have felt like Black's delivers the finest overall meats in Lockhart. Their beef ribs aren't as tasty as JMueller or Stiles Switch, but they are big enough to feed a small militia. Black's has delivered amazing meat plates every year we've been ...full of tasty ribs, pork chops (first time to try), sausage, previously mentioned dinosaur sized beef ribs, and in my opinion... the best brisket in Lockhart. If you're in Lockhart Black's is a must go. Smitty's makes up for slightly less tasty meats with some of the best BBQ atmosphere anywhere. You have to walk right by their giant pits on your way to order (you can literally feel and smell the pending feast)! Make no mistake Smitty's is a tremendous BBQ joint, but probably a slight notch below the other places on this list. Last year we ranked Kreuz third among the Lockhart locales, but due to time and an extremely busy afternoon (probably due to their more commercial friendly lay out and proximity to the main road), we had to skip it this year. We were also hoping to visit Chisholm Trail, but alas that will have to wait at least another year (what? don't act like 7 plates wasn't impressive). Overall Lockhart was tremendous as always, but the general consensus on the way home was that Austin has the most delicious, numerous, and ambitious Central Texas BBQ in the state. No knock on Lockhart, but as the kids say these days...the Austin BBQ scene is blowing up.   
BBQ is the one cooking technique that's been around since caveman days, and it may have taken thousands of years, but the people of Central Texas have perfected the art form. What stands out most about this year? Easy, we all agreed that the meat was tremendous, but the people who bring the very best BBQ to the masses are just as important and if possible....just as enjoyable as the gifts of meat they bestow on their patrons. Until next year.......TEXAS FOREVER!

L to R: Rashad, Chris, and Jason at Smitty's Market
 

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

175 YEARS 1 DAY 11 HOURS: A BBQ ADVENTURE

March 5, 2011. What do 4 junior high football coaches do to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the greatest republic in the history of mankind? They plan an all day 8 stop journey to some of the most legendary bbq establishments in the world. This is that story.
8:00am. The four of us meet up at the junior high where we all teach and are lucky enough to be employed in that  oldest and most respected Texas pastime: football. Our group consists of three lifetime Texans and one recent transplant from Michigan, where good bbq is about as common as a south Texas blizzard. The lawn chairs are packed and the ice chest is loaded as we all admit to being way too excited to sleep well the night before. Our Michigan friend has already learned that Molson Ice and ginger ale will not be making the trip. Instead we have iced down a true Texas trio of Dr. Pepper, Topo Chico, and Shiner. The only breakfast allowed today will be a tall thermos of coffee. We pull out of the parking lot with anticipation as we head out toward Snow’s bbq in Lexington.
Before we reach our first destination, we must fill up on gas and answer the call of too much morning coffee. To our astonishment our northern buddy and one native Texan have never been to the greatest rest stop known to man: Buccees. We immediately pull over when we see the beckoning beaver and fill our tank. There is no better way to get a Texas bbq trip started than by making a pit stop in a gas station where you can salute the Texas flag hanging above your urinal. We head back out on the highway and start reading articles extolling the greatness that is Snow’s bbq.
We take a couple of back roads in Lexington and suddenly like a smoky beacon in the night we catch our first glimpse of Snow’s bbq. Snow’s is only open on Saturdays until it sells out of meat, usually by 2 in the afternoon. We arrive at 10:30 and there is already a line of 20 or so kindred spirits who have traveled to this tiny town in search of what Texas Monthly has named the best bbq in the state. Snow’s looks like a 2 bedroom shack with an enormous outdoor kitchen in the backyard. As we anxiously await our turn in line, we admire Tootsie, the 75 year old angel of bbq who tends the brisket with all the love and respect that bbq this delicious demands. We grab our food and take a seat outdoors so that we can view Tootsie at work while we partake. As the four of us begin to chew the brisket all talking ceases. Some things in life are better enjoyed in silence, and let me assure you this brisket is the holy grail of meat. I’m not sure if it is the out of body brisket experience but I am almost certain I see a tear come to my buddy’s eye and a smoky halo hovering above the head of Tootsie as I let the last piece of brisket sit on my tongue and melt slowly in my mouth. 11:15 and already this trip has exceeded expectations.



Our next stop is the town of Taylor, Texas. Here we eat at two great establishments beginning with the world famous Louie Mueller’s. Mueller’s is housed in what seems like an old warehouse. Everything is covered in smoke from the kitchen and the meat is delicious. You know you are at a real bbq house when the fingerprints on your Styrofoam cup are outlined in soot. From there we head around the corner to Taylor Café where we meet the second larger than life persona on our journey. Taylor Café is owned by a WWII veteran named Vencil who has been serving up bbq for decades. His restaurant seems like something out of a King of the Hill episode. THIS is small town Texas, complete with regulars at the bar, oversized Texas flags, pool tables, and Vencil himself enjoying an afternoon nap behind the bar. We gladly pay our tab and get a picture with the legend himself before heading back out on the road.

The conversation on the road to Lockhart ranges from sports and music to family histories and near death experiences. Everyone is now feeling the weight of eating at three superb bbq restaurants but the holy trinity of bbq goodness that awaits us in Lockhart helps maintain our focus. We begin the Lockhart trifecta at Blacks where the overall quality of ribs, brisket, and sausage is as good as we have indulged in. We head down the street to Smitty’s where you can actually feel the fire from the pits as you wait to sample the ribs, which would eventually win our best ratings of the day. We park behind Kreuz Market to let our food settle and buy some time before finally mustering the intestinal fortitude to complete our Lockhart triple play. As if Lockhart hasn’t already won our hearts, Kreuz gives us the winner of our specialty meat category by serving us a gorgeous pork chop with heapings of the most delicious sauerkraut I have ever tasted. If you love bbq and have never been to Lockhart, Texas; you don’t love bbq.
At this point in our journey, doubts about finishing begin to creep into our heads, but we are merely one town and two spots from completing our meat mecca so we head toward our last stop in Luling, Texas. We quickly enter Luling City Market and are pleasantly surprised to find that despite our swollen stomachs we find the best sausage that we have eaten all day. Like a tailback running out the clock in the fourth quarter, we plow through another plate of meat and with steely resolve walk across the street to our last stop. Unfortunately Luling BBQ is nearly out of meat, but thankfully our bellies accept what little they have left as a final peace offering for the day.
As we drive back home, eleven hours after setting out on our quest for the best bbq, we can now make some conclusions. Luling has the best sausage, Smitty’s boasts the best ribs, and one day a week a little shack in Lexington serves up the best brisket in this life or the next. Blacks and Louie Mueller are amazing places to eat and most importantly in an unanimous vote we award our Michigan friend honorary Texan citizenship. How do 4 junior high football coaches celebrate the 175th anniversary of Texas? The only way Texans know how, with good friends and great BBQ!